Midrange
Vyzantino,
At kydathineon and adrianou, at the epicenter of the plaka tourist-quake, is significantly better and more authentic than the seemingly identical restaurants which line the streets of this intersection. large portions of traditional greek fare served in a pleasant outdoor seating area. service is generally fast but can slow down when the tour groups crowd in.
Platanos
4 dioyenous, tel 210 322 1065 is one of the oldest tavernas in plaka with a pleasant outdoor terrace under a huge plane tree, though some old athens hands have complained that the food has gotten lackluster recently.
Damigos,
Also called ta bakaliarakia which means "codcakes" 41 kydathineon, tel. 210 322 5048, claims to date back to 1865 and though it's recently been refurbished, it still looks very old. this is a really good, traditional, simple restaurant with authentic food, specializing in the eponymous codcakes, and serving excellent wine from the family vineyards. formerly it was mostly closed in the summer months, but it has recently been found open in june.
Zeus Xenios
pronounced and sometimes spelled zefs in modern greek, at the very top of mnesikleous street, literally in the shadow of the acropolis, offers quieter and less expensive dining than the many touristy tavernas lining mnesikleous whose touts will try to snare you as you walk up the hill. the view isn't as spectacular as you might expect, but the outdoor seating is very pleasant and the traditional greek dishes include some unusual ones, like grilled peppers in yogurt sauce. the cover charge includes a bottle of water, an appetizer plate, and garlic bread.
Expensive
Cafe Avissinia
(http://www.avissinia.gr/m...) is quite a remarkable restaurant, serving refined and creative innovations on traditional greek dishes in a chic setting. located on the square of the same name which is the venue of the main athens flea market, this is an interesting place to come for lunch, where you can sit enjoying the upscale food and ambiance while looking out on the gritty bazaar of the flea market. moderately expensive, and unfortunately no open wine, though they do have a short but well-chosen list of greek bottled wines. open for lunch and dinner. those considering walking there for dinner from plaka or the monastiraki metro should be aware that the intervening area, while fine by day and not known to be particularly dangerous even at night, it does take on an uncomfortable "bladerunner" atmosphere after dark.
Neighboring Plaka is the rather rough and tumble Monastiraki neighborhood, immediately to the west of the Metro station of the same name.
Plaka offers innumerable restaurants, most of them packed with tourists and few of them very noteworthy. The following can be recommended:
Budget
At the end of Mitropoleos, just around the corner from the Metro station, is a trio of famous souvlaki shops — Thanasis, Savvas and Bairaktaris ÎÏαÏÏακÏάÏÎ·Ï — which are, depending on who you ask, the Mecca or the Hades of souvlaki lovers. At any of the three, if you take a seat and ask for a souvlaki, you'll be served a plate with meat, pita, and chips and expected to pay upwards of €9 for the privilege. On the other hand, if you just walk up to the cashier and order a pita-souvlaki, you'll get the same stuff in a sandwich to take away and will pay only around €1.70 for it. If you have to pick just one of the three, Thanasis probably has a slight edge: they spice up their meat with a secret house blend and use a mustard-based condiment instead of the usual tzatziki.
Adrianou, which runs along the north side of the Acropolis from Thissio in the west to Plaka in the east, is packed with tavernas. Many are touristy and a little on the pricy side, so try to pick one that also has locals as customers. Expect to pay a little extra at any place that has views of the Acropolis!
Just behind the Cathedral Mitropolis try PALLS 30 Apollonos st. / 2103246008 for original falafel and bagel