Two parts of Bandelier itself lie off the beaten path. Tsankawi is a detached part of the monument that offers a chance to see ruins in an unrestored state and hike on more primitive trails or even cross-country. There are excellent petroglyphs in profusion here. It is on the southeast side of State Highway 4 shortly after it splits off from 502 coming from Santa Fe and before White Rock. Bring hiking boots and plan to spend 2-3 hours; the hike is not long, but as you must find many of the attractions particularly the petroglyphs for yourself, you'll be moving slowly.
In the winter, cross-country skiing is possible on loop trails at the upper end of the monument. Follow 502 northwest left from the main entrance, with sites of Los Alamos National Laboratory on your right closed to public. The drive will show evidence of the disastrous forest fire in 2000 that started as a controlled burn within Bandelier, got out of control, and spread into the town of Los Alamos, destroying about 400 homes and apartments. A spectacularly winding and exposed road eventually reaches a parking lot high in the mountains, with the ski loops on the left-hand side. The right-hand side at the parking lot is presently closed to the public despite being part of Bandelier, but as of fall 2005, plans are afoot to open it to some recreational use; stay tuned. The trails range in length from 1.1 mile 1.8 km to 8 miles 13 km and are maintained for in-line skiing only, not being wide enough for diagonal technique. The terrain is suitable for the beginning XC skiier as the trails wind through serene conifer forest to superb views of the canyon. Check locally on snow conditions before embarking on this trip; snowfall in the Jemez Mountains varies greatly from year to year, and conditions can range from excellent through completely unskiable even in deepest winter. Hiking on these trails during summer is possible, though unexceptional; the road to St. Peters Dome takes off from 502 just beyond the parking lot and leads to more scenic and challenging trails.
Beyond St. Peters Dome road, 502 continues into the Jemez Mountains and passes through Valles Caldera National Preserve, another unit of the national park system. This is one of the newest of the national-park units and opportunities for the visitor are still being developed. Valles Caldera protects gorgeous mountainous terrain surrounding an enormous volcanic structure that erupted catastrophically about 1.5 million years ago and again 1.1 million years ago to produce the tuff that makes up the mesas and canyons of Bandelier. Forays into Valle Grande, the largest valley in the caldera, and to surrounding peaks can be arranged, and there is interesting XC skiing in winter that is somewhat more likely to have satisfactory snow conditions than the Bandelier loop. Inquire locally; doing things in Valles Caldera takes some advance planning owing to access restrictions.
Los Alamos is a quiet town of about 20,000 including White Rock with historical and science museums, a surprisingly good downhill ski area on nearby Pajarito Mountain, and its own archaeological sites -- the historical museum is right next to a set of restored ruins in the middle of town. Overlook Park in White Rock ends in a wheelchair-accessible viewpoint that offers stunning views of White Rock Canyon and the Rio Grande far below. Lodging and dining are possible in either the main Los Alamos town site or White Rock; all are satisfactory, none exceptional. For fine dining and much else, go back to Santa Fe.
