Derge gGon Chen monastery
was founded in 1446 by Yogis Hang Stong Rgyal Po and the first local king Bo. It doubled as palace for the kings, but is most famous for being one of the cradles of Tibetan Buddhist study and practice. Unfortunately, there are only a few old buildings remaining and the newer ones are particularly ugly. Head farther uphill from the Printing Yard along the river following a Chörten-studded road. The entrance to the main temple is in the big red building on the left.The Dege Buddhist Scriptures Printing House [Tib.: Derge Parkhang] is independent from the monastery and is the first substantial building you'll encounter walking south from the town's center along the stream. The Printing House is in a beautiful traditional temple which was restored in 1991. It is constantly circambulated by townspeople and pilgrims. Admission fee is Â¥50/person, and normally photography of the sections with the printing blocks is not allowed, though you can take pictures of the printing process. It is always worth asking your guide if it's allowed to take a particular photograph as the rules change from time to time. The institution was founded in 1729 by Chogyal dharma king Denba Tsering. There are more than 140,000 printing blocks, a large collection of national cultural relics and a library comprising 830 books consisting of 10000 volumes. The last surviving copy of an old history of Indian Buddhism is amongst them. As the pamphlet you are handed puts it: "This bright cultural pearl is the crystallization of the wisdom of the Tibetan people living in snow realm.". Inside you can wander the corridor lined with shelves accommodating the printing blocks, their handles protruding. on the 3rd floor there is the workshop. 6 or 7 pairs of workers ink the blocks and press the paper on them with amazing speed. On the next floor, the prints are dried and then assembled to books. In an extra chamber, large format pictures and scripts are printed on cloth. From the roof you have nice views over the surrounding Tibetan neighbourhood and the new town. A tour of the dark temple concludes the visit.
From the Printing House head west into the old quarter and follow a path leading down to the river. Hidden within a maze of traditional houses you will find the Tangtang Gyalpo Lhakhang, a tiny temple. Most any time of day you can find monks inside chanting scripture.
