Understand
The countryside is extremely beautiful, and punctuated by around 30,000 tulou, a Hakka structure where a number of residences are built inside a single fortified compound. Most of these tulou are still in use, however the area has suffered an extreme population drain as the able-bodied have generally moved to Eastern Coastal cities as migrant workers, leaving behind a population of the very old and the very young. The villages also contain modern housing, and older houses that are not tulou.
The people in the area are friendly, tourist infrastructure is minimal, and there are no large tour buses - which makes for a very pleasant contrast with other touristed rural areas in China. However, do not expect any English to be spoken, anywhere.
