Mount of olives / garden of gethsemane
It is recommended that one explore the Mount of Olives from the top down, as the uphill climb can be extremely ambitious. The best ways to travel to the top of the Mount of Olives are by sherut shared taxi, which will cost âª20, or by bus, both of which are easily accessible from the Damascus Gate.
Steimatzkyâs bookstore in West Jerusalem carries a very good pamphlet called "The Mount of Olives" that includes an account of the history of each church, in addition to readings from the Gospels and notes from pilgrims to the area. It also covers Bethphage and the Church of St. Lazarus in Bethany.
The following points of interest are listed from the top of the Mount to the bottom. Once you have finished on the Mount of Olives, it is a short climb to the Old City's Lion's Gate.
Mosque of the Ascension
Sacred to Muslims and Christians, this medieval chapel—now part of a mosque—is on the supposed site of Christ's ascension. The chapel was built around AD 380 around a venerated imprint, now set in stone, of Christ's right foot. The chapel became a Muslim shrine after Saladin's conquest in 1187. If given a "tour" by the guard, he will expect a gratuity for his services.
Dominus Flevit Chapel
Its name meaning "The Lord Wept", this chapel was identified by medieval pilgrims as the place where Jesus wept over the fate of Jerusalem. The chapel's west window frames a breathtaking view of the Old City. A small collection of stone artifacts from nearby excavations are on display.
Jewish quarter
The Broad Wall
Following the 1967 Israeli victory, a vast reconstruction program in the Jewish Quarter resulted in many important archaeological finds. One of the most significant was the unearthing of the foundations of a massive wall. These fortifications, measuring 7 m 22 ft thick and 65 m 215 ft long, are possibly part of the fortifications built by King Hezekiah in the 8th century BC.
The Jewish Quarter feels distinctly different from the rest of the Old City. Razed by the Jordanians after they expelled all the Jewish residents in 1948, most buildings in it have been rebuilt from scratch since Israel assumed control of the Old City in 1967. Despite strict laws mandating the use of Jerusalem sandstone in all facades in order to maintain uniformity, the buildings look and feel new.
Western Wall Tunnel Tour
This is a tour of the underground parts of the Western Wall, including the evolution of the Temple Mount from the First Temple period to today. A wonderful tour for those interested in the archeology and history of the Temple Mount. You will see enormous stones underlying the Western Wall, an underground synagogue the nearest spot to the Temple site, where Jews are allowed to pray, a pool and a water tunnel from Herod's time. The tour must be booked in advance but is well worth the advanced preparation. During the low season, you can also try your luck and join an excursion without the reservation.
Saint Mary's Hospice
The ruins of a 12th century German Crusader Hospice within view of the Temple Mount. Worth a short visit. A Jewish art gallery/shop is to the left of the door to the hospice's church it's pretty obvious which of the buildings is the church.
The Cardo
Once running nearly the entire length of the Old City from north to south, the Cardo is an excavated and partially reconstructed section of the Jerusalem's main thoroughfare in the Byzantine era. Visitors can get a good idea of how the whole once looked by descending to the 200 m 650 ft section alongside the Jewish Quarter. The central roadway was 12.5 m 41 ft wide and lined with shops. The pillars from that time still stand. Today in part, the Cardo contains an exclusive, covered shopping arcade.
Hurva Square
In a maze of narrow and winding streets, Hurva Square is the heart and social center of the Jewish Quarter. Its open areas offer cafes, souvenir shops, and snack bars with outdoor seating. On the west side of the square is the site of the Huvra Synogogue Hurva means "ruins". Burnt down by its creditors in the 18th century, the synagogue was rebuilt in 1864 only to be destroyed during the fighting that took place in 1948 between the Arab and Jewish armies. After the Israeli assumption of control in 1967, a lone arch was reconstructed from the remaining shell, making it a popular photographic attraction. In 2006, however, the arch was removed and reconstruction of the synagogue commenced. The synagogue was re-dedicated on March 15, 2010, and is now available for tours must be pre-booked.
Armenian quarter
The Armenian Quarter is the smallest and quietest of the four. The quarter runs itself as a city within a city within a city..., shutting all gates when night falls.
St. James Cathedral
This Armenian cathedral is one of the most beautiful of all the sacred buildings in Jerusalem. It was constructed in the 11th and 12th centuries over the traditional tomb of St James the Apostle. Attending an Armenian Orthodox vespers service is a treat, even for non-believers. Vespers is held each evening except Sunday from 3PM-3:30PM. It is chanted by the seminarians of the Armenian Orthodox seminary across the street from the Cathedral. The chanting is very moving and has a bitter-sweet tone to it which is unforgettably beautiful. Each afternoon the service is signaled by a priest striking wooden bars hanging from the vaulted porch. The interior is dimly lit by hundreds of oil lamps hung from the ceiling. Make sure to find out if their is an Armenian holy day where all of the lamps will be lit up during your visit. Rather than seats, the floors are thickly laid with Oriental rugs. The cathedral contains a chapel that supposedly holds the head of St James.
Saint Mark's Syriac Church and Monastery
The monastery is open all day, simply ring at the gate. According to tradition, this church was built on the site of the house of Mary, mother of St Mark. Every weekday the three resident monks hold the 25 minute vespers service at 4PM for the small community of Syriac believers as well as visitors. Female visitors are not required to cover their hair during services.
Christian quarter
Christian Quarter Road
Along with David Street, is the quarter's main shopping thoroughfare. As with most shopping areas in the Christian Quarter, it specializes in religious items as well as handicrafts.
A Walk on the Roofs
It is possible to walk above the central souk along the rooftops of the city. Visitors can climb up to the rooftops via a small staircase at the corner of St Mark's Road and Khabad Street. A second set of stairs leads up from Muristan Road and visitors can exit into the courtyard of Khan el-Sultan, which allows exit onto Chain Street. The view from the rooftops offers delightful views of the bustling streets below, as well as unusual views of the Church of the Holy Sepulcre and the Dome of the Rock.
The Christian Quarter, the result of rapid expansion under Byzantine rule, is in the northwest corner of the city and is home to a bewildering array of churches, patriarchates and hospices of the city's many Christian denominations. The quarter is served by the Jaffa Gate and the New Gate.
Muristan
Just south of the Church of the Holy Sepulcre, this area was once a hospice for pilgrims from Latin-speaking countries. Today it serves as a quiet area of outdoor cafes and small shops centered around an atmospheric central fountain.
Church of St John the Baptist
Adorned by a silvery dome, this church is visible from the Muristan even though the entrance is fairly difficult to locate. Founded in the 5th century, the church is significant as one of the most ancient churches in Jerusalem. The church was used as a hospice during the Siege of Jerusalem in 1099.
Outside the walls
Schindler's Tomb
Down the hill from the Zion Gate is a small Christian cemetery. It is here that the grave of Czech-born German Oskar Schindler is located. Schindler, an industrialist during World War II, went out of his way to hire Jews as laborers in his factory. By doing so, he saved 1,200 people from the Nazi death camps. The story was memorialized in Stephen Spielberg's Academy Award-winning movie, Schindler's List.
Garden Tomb
Disputed to be an alternative to the Church of the Holy Sepulcre as the location of the death, burial and resurrection of Christ, the Garden Tomb is located a block north of the Damascus Gate. British general, Charles Gordon, popularized the view that the skull shaped hill just north of the city was the Golgotha referred to in the New Testament. Excavations have revealed an ancient tomb along with ruins of a cistern system and winepress—evidences that the site was once the location of a garden. Regardless of its authenticity, the lovely garden is worth a visit.
St Peter in Gallicantu
Located to the east of Mount Zion and overlooking the Kidron Valley, this church commemorates the traditional site of St Peter's denial of Christ. In the crypt below the church are ancient caves, purported to be the place where Christ spent the night at the hand of Caiphas before being presented to Pontius Pilate. A large wooden model of an 18th century Old City is on display in the courtyard, although it pales in comparison to the more elaborate model on display at the Citadel see Armenian Quarter.
muslim quarter
The Muslim Quarter is the largest and most densely populated quarter of the Old City. The quarter has changed hands many times from the 12th through 15th centuries, resulting in decay since the 16th century. It is the dirtiest quarter, not to mention a little dangerous during Ramadan, the only time of year for many Palestinians from the West Bank to visit it. Sexual harassment including groping is, unfortunately, commonly reported by foreign women after Friday prayers as huge crowds pour out of the Noble Sanctuary. Needless to say this kind of behavior is forbidden in Islam and one may have success shaming them by yelling "anta Muslim?" "Are you Muslim?" but caution is advised.
NOTE: Noble Sanctuary/Temple Mount Area
Non-Muslims are strictly prohibited permanently from entering the al-Aqsa Mosque and currently from entering the Dome of the Rock. Documentation will be checked upon entry and anyone not showing proof of being Muslim will be denied entry. The site which is known to Muslims as the Noble Sanctuary and also commonly known to Jews and Christians as the Temple Mount, on which the al-Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock are situated, is extremely controversial and security is tight and access is strictly regulated.
Rules and Regulations at the Noble Sanctuary/Temple Mount Area
Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter the Noble Sanctuary on Fridays and during Muslim prayer hours, and may well be shut off entirely depending on the political situation of the day. The entry to the Noble Sanctuary itself is not prohibited to non-Muslims outside these periods and is free of charge.
Visitors are subject to a strict security screening, and items such as non-Muslim prayerbooks and instruments are strictly prohibited. Visitors must be appropriately dressed i.e. no shorts, no miniskirts, no sleeveless shirts/tops, no bare body parts, no non-Muslim religious attire such as kippahs, no clothes with religious and political slogans. Headscarves are not compulsory for female visitors, and must be prepared for sometimes a long queue at the security checking point. Non-Muslims are strictly banned from praying on the Noble Sanctuary/Temple Mount, and any non-Muslims who are caught praying on the site will be immediately expelled from the site by the police. Any prayer by non-Muslims and the chanting of religious and political slogans on the Noble Sanctuary will be regarded by Muslims as extremely provocative and can result in a backlash of violence and in the physical danger of the person involved .
Visiting hours are Sa-Th 7:30AM-11AM and 1:30PM-2:30PM during and between Muslim prayer hours. During the Muslim fasting month of Ramadan visiting hours are Sa-Th 7:30AM-11AM only. (Notice that these prayer hours can be changed as they are based on Muslim prayer times which is based on the Muslim lunar calendar which moves backwards about ten days each year as compared to the solar calendars, and the dates of Ramadan move backwards as well, as it is a moving month and holiday depending on the moon.
Entering the Noble Sanctuary/Temple Mount is through an elevated wooden walkway through a gate called Mughrabi Gate Moor's Gate, which lies next to the Jewish Western Wall area in the Jewish Quarter.