Nikko

For the sights in the temple area, it's best to buy a combination ticket 社寺共通拝観券, ¥1,000 that covers Toshogu, Rinnoji, and Futarasan, as separate admissions are ¥500-1000 each. You can buy this at any of the three sites. Guides can be arranged Tel. 0288-54-0641 for the three sites at ¥5500 for 1-20 people.

Sacred Stable

After two flights of steps you will reach the Sacred Stable, housing a white horse. The most famous symbol here is the carving of the three wise monkeys, who "hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil". They're part of a curious series of carvings about the life cycle of a monkey, from giddy childhood to fearful old age. Nearby, you can also find an interesting approximation of an elephant, carved by an artist who had clearly never seen one.

Yakushi-dō Hall

薬師堂, the hall of the medicine buddha, is known for a dragon painting on the ceiling. a monk is usually on hand to speak japanese only and strike a special block whose sharp, piercing sound is said to be identical to the cry of a dragon — not quite the roar of english legend but an attention-getter all the same.

To the right of the main hall is the way to Ieyasu's tomb, entry to which costs an extra ¥520. Look out for another famous carving, this time of a sleeping cat nemuri-neko. There are 200 stone steps, and steep ones at that; and then you finally reach the surprisingly simple gravesite itself.

Tōshōgū

The burial place of dynasty founder Tokugawa Ieyasu and the most extravagant of the lot. Ieyasu was buried here immediately after his death, but the present complex was only built in 1634 on the order of his grandson Iemitsu. The shrine took 2 years to complete with the efforts of 15,000 workers.

Rinnō-ji Temple

Known for its three large Buddha figures at the Sanbutsudoh Hall portion of Rinnoji Temple, the real reason to visit is the beautiful and peaceful Shōyō-en Garden 逍遥園, included in the price.

There are a few other sites near the temple area:

Shinkyō

神橋. This much-photographed red bridge separates the shrines from the town of Nikko. In feudal times, only the shogun was permitted to cross the bridge, and even today it's barred from pedestrian traffic — although there's a 4-lane highway rumbling right past. You can get a nice view from the sidewalk, but to set foot on the bridge and look down into the gorge below, you'll have to buy a ¥350 ticket from the booth nearby.

Takino-o Shrine

滝尾神社 Takino-o-jinja. This often overlooked mountain shrine is situated slightly up the mountain behind Toshogu and provides a welcome relief from the more crowded areas of Sannai. It takes its name from the picturesque waterfall that greets you at the base of the entrance. You can get there by walking for about 15-20 minutes along an ancient and atmospheric stone path that begins behind the Toshogu Shamusho office. This path also features several other notable sites such as the Kyosha-do Hall Japanese Chess pieces are left here as offerings for hopes of a safe birth, the worship hall Kaisan-do and the gravesite of Shodo-Shonin the latter two are maintained by Rinnoji Temple.

Kanmangafuchi Abyss

A long series of jizo protector statues on the side of a hill, some adorned with hats and bibs, some crumbling with age, with a river, small waterfalls and rapids below. Legend says that the statues change places from time to time, and a visitor will never see them in the same order twice. It can be tricky to find - at Shinkyō, instead of heading up the steps to the temple area, follow the road around to the west to the left, if you crossed over the bridge and walk roughly half an hour following the river - look for signs along the way. You will be walking through a residential area. If you pass the Turtle Inn, you are heading in the correct direction.

Tamozawa Imperial Villa Memorial Park

Tel. 0288-53-6767; open 9:00am-4:30pm, closed Tuesdays. Built for the Emperor Taisho in 1899, the former imperial villa also served as a hide-out for Hirohito during World War II. It's next to the Botanical Garden.

Nikko Botanical Garden

Tel. 0288-54-0206; open 9:00am-4:30pm, closed Mondays and Dec.-mid-April. (http://www.bg.s.u-tokyo.a...) Has plenty of the local flora and gardens that were said to be favorites of the Emperor Taisho. It's now an adjunct to Tokyo University.