Leith

The Kings Wark

36 the shore. 0131 5549260. one of the oldest buildings in the whole city. check out the walls which are literally feet thick. excellent traditional pub by the water. good range of real ales and whiskys. the food is good too, as is the staff’s banter.

A wee bit off the beaten path, but very handy for those staying at one of the many B&Bs along Pilrig Street and Newhaven Road. Guilty Lily is a friendly neighbourhood pub with a penchant for dressing up and a sideline in great quality food. Live music every Friday Free and on the last Thursday evening of every month Sapphire Music Club (http://www.thesapphire.co.uk/ - £5).

Cameo Bar

23 commercial street. 0131 5549999. one of the longest established of leith's many "style bars". manages to combine trendy decor with a friendly, neighbourhood feel.

The Village

South fort street. 0131 4787810. plays host to leith folk club (http://www.leithfolkclub.org) every tuesday evening, with performers from all over the british isles and sometimes further afield.

Teuchters Landing

Dock place. 0131 5547427. recent addition to the popular aroomin/teuchters mini-chain. located in a former cruise liner waiting room. lots of outside tables by the water so a great choice for a sunny afternoon.

The Vaults

87 giles street. 0131 5543451. the home of the scottish malt whisky society smws (http://www.smws.co.uk/) and only open to members and their guests. located on the first floor of edinburgh's oldest commercial building, the main members room manages to be opulent and impressive, while still remaining relaxing and in no way snooty. the smws bottle single malt whiskys at cask strength. each bottling is from a single cask and is therefore unique. if you like whisky then its well worth befriending a member and getting signed in! also serves a range of quality bottled beers, a small wine list, and complementary tea and coffee, plus good food. live music last sunday of every month.