Durham

Bahn's Cuisine

750 9th st, + 1 919 286-5073. most of the week this is an average chinese takeout place; however, on wednesday and saturday they serve vietnamese home cooking and soups. a local hangout since 1985. the locals can tell you're "not from around here" if you order chinese on those days. there are both vegetarian and vegan plates. the "#8 vegetarian plate" of fried tofu and a vegetable roll is the most popular dish on saturdays and to a lesser degree on mondays. the "pork bun" is a good choice for small children as is the satay chicken they'll frequently make adapted portions for children. it is cash only. plates and sides are $2-$6.

Cosmic Cantina

1920 1/2 perry st, + 1 919 286-1875. a duke hangout with cheap california-style burritos, cheap beer, and quick service. entrees, if they can be called that, range from $2-$6, beer is $2, soda is $1. cosmic is open late, generally until 4am. durham is home to the original cosmic cantina, which can also now be found in chapel hill and manhattan.

Elmo's Diner

Ninth street, (http://www.elmosdiner.com/). serves the best breakfast in durham, as well as good comfort food and diner fare for lunch and dinner. grab a table or sit at the bar. you may have to wait a bit on weekend mornings, but elmo's makes coffee and newspapers available to help pass the time.

Francesca's Dessert Cafe

706-b ninth street, (http://www.francescasdess...), + 1 919 286-4177. it is known for its own gelato style ice cream with many flavors made on location and varieties as well as its sorbetto also made on location in addition to its baked goods. in addition it also has soy varieties of its ice cream. the coffee is decent counter culture brand but a better cup can be had next door at "bean traders". all desserts are under $10.

Bean Traders Coffee

714 9th st, durham, + 1 919 286-6087. a locally owned and operated chain with 3 stores 2 in durham, 1 in chapel hill which as the name seems to intonate is also a coffee buyer/distributor of the "bean traders" brand of whole sale coffee beans. the coffee is excellent and the atmosphere relaxed and causal 2 stories of it. cookies and baked goods are also for sale, but better desserts can be found next door at francesca's. wireless access is provided.

The Mad Hatter's Bake Shop

(http://www.madhattersbake...). a local bakery that has recently branched out into full dinner fare. their dinners are as good as and more creative than their cakes and cookies. entrees tend to be $6-$8, and many are healthy and vegetarian-friendly.

Wimpy's Grill

617 hicks st, + 1 919 286-4380. a walk-up lunch counter no seating that serves some of the best hamburgers, peach cobbler, and chocolate cake in durham. skip the chain restaurants, and support a local mom-and-pop joint. weekdays only, open until 2:30pm. very popular with locals.

Dog House

Durham also has plenty of fast-food restaurants, with a particularly high concentration on Hillsborough Road. Try the Dog House 4 locations, ask around and Cook-Out Hillsborough Rd, N Duke St, Miami Blvd locations especially.

Loco Pops

2600 hillsborough rd. serves gourmet popsicles in a variety of unusual, mexican-inspired flavors. try the mexican chocolate or the mojito. each popsicle is $1-$2.

Xiloa

748 9th st, +1 919 286-1430. a very different kind of caribbean/nicaraguan/southwestern mix of delicious fare. try their refrescos a type of non-alcoholic drink, generally fruit-based, indian tacos and nacatamales.

Bullock's

(http://www.bullocksbbq.com/). a local tradition, serving eastern-north carolina bbq, sweet tea, hush puppies, and plenty of fried vegetables. go "family style" for about $9 and eat a bit of everything. note that eastern-nc bbq is dry and is cooked with vinegar, and may not be what outsiders are used to. bullock's is often crowded, but the line moves fast. bullock's is cash only and closes at 8pm.

Cinelli's Ristorante & Pizzeria of Durham

607 broad street, + 1 919 416-4554, (http://www.cinellis.com/). there are several cinelli's in the area, however gaitano "guy" cinelli's is the best. cinelli's pizza is some of the best outside of new york. highly recommended is the signature grandma's pizza. in addition to the excellent pies, cinelli's offers a full range of traditional italian fare. large pizzas are about $20, and traditional italian entrees range from $10-$15.

Piedmont

401 foster street, + 1 919 430-0261, (http://www.piedmontrestau...). italian and french country food, emphasizing local produce in menu. limited lunch menu, but decent dinner menu. lunch ranges from $4-$9 and dinner $4-$17.

Four Square

2701 chapel hill rd at pickett, + 1 919 401-9877. not far from duke university and the lakewood neighborhood, presents superlative contemporary european and american flavors in an incredible early 20th century victorian mansion. completely out of place in its working-class neighborhood, it is an experience in every sense. very romantic. reservations strongly suggested.

The Magnolia Grill

1002 9th st, + 1 919 286-3609. one of the finest restaurants in the area, with a menu of gourmet southern-inspired food that changes daily. save room for dessert. entrees are $23-$29, with appetizers and dessert $6-$10. reservations recommended. **now closed**

Nikos Taverna

905 west main st in historic brightleaf square downtown, + 1 919 682-0043. has been serving upscale greek cuisine in their modern, loft-like space since the 1980s. great for lunch. reservations recommended.

Nana's

2514 university dr at james st, + 1 919 493-8545. serves upscale and innovative new american fare in their warm and quiet space tucked into the city's lovely rockwood neighborhood. reservations recommended.

Papas Grille

1821 hillandale rd in loehmann's plaza (near i-85 & hillandale rd), + 1 919 383-8502. serves terrific mediterranean and american-inspired dishes in a cozy but no-frills upscale environment. entrees around $20-30. reservations recommended.

Pop's

In downtown durham, (http://www.pops-durham.com/). tasty, creative italian dishes and pizzas. most entrees are $10-$19.,,

A casual, yet upscale restaurant focusing on regional and global classics with fresh fish.